Saturday, March 31, 2007
Blenheim to Wellington
An easy, flat, short 28 km to the ferry today, right! By mid morning the north wind was howling down the road between the hills, straight into our faces. The road seemed ever upward except for about 1 km out of Picton when we had a nice downhill. All others had their cycling clothes on except me. I figured that for a 7 hour journey with 1 hour of riding it was not worth staying in spandex all day. Mind you I look better in spandex than some of the others but Rita was with me anyway so what was the point.
We arrived in Picton well before the ferry loading time so that we could repackage our stuff. We had already managed to get all the luggage and food into the trailer and so now we had to put 5 bikes into the van. Kirk’s was already strapped to the top of the trailer and after removing the front wheels from 4 more we got them into the van. This meant that we didn’t have to pay extra for each of those bikes to go across. After all this was done we went to the bar to have the usual, flat white coffee.
The ferry crossing was smooth sailing and we enjoyed the scenery from the perspective of the water. One picture shows the bikes strapped down in the ferry and the other some of the ladies on deck.
Wellington is a fairly large city, in fact the largest that we will be cycling in. The road to the hotel passes right through the downtown area and it was late Saturday afternoon at this time, busy traffic. Since Rita and I had explored the city while waiting for the ferry on the journey south; we led the way for all the rides and the van to the hotel. All went well except for U-turn between two one-way streets where I ended up on the wrong side of the road and all others followed.
Tonight’s hotel is right in the downtown area; an old city hotel which has both hotel and backpacker accommodations. Kirk prepared his bike for the trip home and was sorry to have to go back home. Because there is no place to keep the bikes we put 5 into the empty trailer, 4 into the back of the van and laid the tandem across the seats. We will take the tandem out tomorrow and put it in the hotel room when we use the van for taxi service to church.
The backpacker’s kitchen here is rather small and crowed but we enjoyed a meal of beef stroganoff all the same.
Some more on Berlins
The Berlins Hotel and BBH was established in the 1800’s during the gold rush in this area. The north part of the west coast from Ross to here was mined for gold. The rivers still give up flakes and nuggets after a storm. People still have claims that they work from time to time.
The Buller River has quite a volume of water running in it with the typical shallow areas but also some deep up welling areas. They have earthquakes in this area since there is a major fault line running through here. They also get slides coming off of the hills along the gorge. The river has become blocked at times like this and major floods have occurred. In 1968 it rose over 11m above the normal level. Local photos of earthquakes show the roads ruined with large cracks running down them.
The Town of Berlins now consists of 1 hotel, all the other buildings have disappeared.
Our hostel tonight has 16 beds, 1 room with 3 bunks, two rooms with 2 bunks and 1 with a double bed. This is a normal arrangement for these smaller backpackers places.
Thursday, March 29, 2007
St Arnaud to Blenheim
When we got on the road it was quite warm and very humid so the first thing we did is take off a layer of clothing. After about 8km we were over the top of the divide and going down hill basically for the rest of the day about 730m and another 90 km of road. Average speed for the day was over 30kph for us and all the others were also enjoying the downhill ride. The road follows the river valley and more and more farms both dairy, sheep and toward the end vineyards. We decided to take a tour though one and that is another of the posted pictures. Everyone managed to ride after the tasting, even in a straight line.
Accommodations tonight are quite luxurious and tomorrow is an easy ride for the six day of consecutive riding, the longest week of the tour.
Berlins to St. Arnoud
Jessie yelled "seven kilometers to go" out of the van window as he passed the other way. These where welcome words. My odometer had quite working due to the rain we had experienced for the last 70km. We had been on a very flat stretch of road for about 1/2 hour working on the last 25km stretch for the day after eating a late lunch. We had now been on the road for 5 hours, the wind was in our face and the sunshine we had experience in the rainy part of the South Island was now gone as we entered the dry east side of it!
Bernie and John were ahead of us with all the others well back. The others had stopped for an extra break. The ride up to this point had been hard in a different way, up and down and more up as we rode along the
We had no idea what the last 25k would bring as we had lunch but we knew we had to go up another 280m. As we got into the ride the road plateaued and this is the straight as a prairie road we were on now. We couldn't get the bike over 20kph (before my unit crapped out) No brake on, Rita claimed she was working, I certainly was; so it had to be the wind and incline of the road, steadily climbing. The rain kept coming and going.
A light rain is no problem, the heat from your body keeps you somewhat dry and warm but if it picks up a lot you do get chilled. It was the "longest 7 km" Rita had ever seen but eventually we got there.
All the others arrived in due time tired and wet. Kirk had to give up for the day because of the continuing knee problem he has been having. A bowl of warm soup was waiting for the riders and then a warm shower. Several riders had flat tires (the rain always makes it worse).
We are in a ski area, just about on the divide for the
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
Greymouth to Berlins
Anyway I have to go now. Will try to post tomorrow again. Bill
Monday, March 26, 2007
Franz Josef to Greymouth (2 days)
This perfect weather is really getting boring and we are over budget on sunscreen! Three riders had left early in order to get a couple of bike repairs done in Hokitika before we arrived. Adrian and his brake/rear shifter and Ton with an alignment problem with his rear shifter still not right after the accident with the trailer. It was already 17C when we left at 9:20. No major climbs today and after the town of Hokitika it followed the ocean about 300m away from it but close enough to hear the waves on the beach.
The lunch stop was in Hokitika. On the photo you can still see the snow capped mountains just above the white van. This seemed like a nice town with the main industry being the gold panning in the nearby rivers for the tourists and making/selling jewelry to those who didn’t have the time to pan.
The afternoon ride was uneventful along the flat straight road along the ocean. We have noticed an increase in traffic from yesterday and some change in vegetation.
Franz Josef to Kakapotahi River
As usual breakfast was finished at the scheduled starting time, riders eager to go. The first group left at 9, air still cool but only light cloud and little wind. We pulled out 15 minutes later. Everyone felt strong after a day off. The first stop was 32 km away and it turned out there was a nice coffee shop there. We all arrived within a few minutes of each other as planned. Coffee here is always fresh, no such thing as a pot. You order a short or long black, a flat white or a latte. It is then freshly made and brought to your table when ready. It tastes good but is not cheap, usually $3.50NZ or about $3 CDN.
The ride for the day was 90km so 1/3 was down, another 30 to our lunch break, but in order to get there we had to climb Mount Hercules which rises about 250m above the surrounding area. This was the main climb for the day and of course we had to go up the steep side. The wind never blows on these climbs in the trees and your going slow so you don’t create your own breeze. My glasses come off so that I can wipe the sweat off of my brow before it reaches my eyes. I had orders to take it easy on this stretch since the first section had turned into a bit of a fast ride, averaging over 30 kph.
Most of us left at about the same time for the third section, and after a while a line 5 bikes formed behind the Tandem. A few hills broke up the group with 2 going ahead and one dropping back. Everyone had a good ride today.
Old Church Backpackers, is an old church; which was moved to this site and renovated to become a hostel. It is nicely situated beside the river in which some of us dared to wash. The water temperature is less than 10C since all the rivers here come from the ice fields.
This is a very nicely kept place and all are enjoying the facilities in this somewhat rustic setting. We have 5 separate bedrooms so most couples will have their own space tonight.
Sunday, March 25, 2007
Franz Jozef
The morning sun was out by the time we got up. The first picture is of the ever-present glacier and tourist business in this town. It is all tours and adventure experiences of every kind.
We had our own church service; since neither the RC nor Anglican buildings in town have regular services, ably led by Bernie and Anna. We continue to be in awe of the beauty that is around us and gave thanks again to our creator for it.
At 12:30 we went on a glacier walk and the other posted pictures are of that. The Franz Josef glacier is one of the fastest moving in the world advancing about a foot per day at the bottom. This is because of its steepness and allows it to exist within the rain forest; which surrounds it. The top of the mountain receives some 25m of snow per year; which feeds this glacier. Unlike some other glaciers this one has actually been growing since 1983 after receding since it was ‘discovered’ in the 1750s.
Tomorrow we resume our bike trek northward along the west coast of New Zealand. There is no official internet available in the place we are staying but I will try to post from the hostel’s computer, but no guarantees.